Aberlady Bay, the estuary of the Peffer Burn west, lies on the Firth of Forth 15 miles
east of
Edinburgh. The extensive mudflats, musselbeds, intertidal sand and saltmarsh extend to 1100
acres and are bordered by dunes, calcareous grassland, freshwater marsh, pools, scrub and
woodland. Five golf courses adjoin the area and the adjacent sea is also rich in birdlife. This
wide range in habitats within a fairly small area supports a varied population of resident and
migratory birds and its accessibility leads to good observer- coverage. These two factors have
given Aberlady a high birdlist - 249 species by 1988. The site has been designated a Grade 1
Site of Special Scientific Interest on geological, botanical and ornithological grounds and
Aberlady Bay is managed by East Lothian District Council as a Local Nature Reserve. it was
established in 1952 as the first local nature reserve in Britain.
It was presented as a management model by M.B. Usher in 1973. This plan still represents
a
good exemplar of the information and operations required to manage a nature reserve. In this
version the material has been re-formatted in the light of subsequent developments in the logic
of setting out the operational structure of a conservation management plan.
Access
The reserve is open to the public at all times but it is an important aim of management
to
ensure that visitor usage does not adversely affect the wildlife of the area. Those whose
interests are rather general are encouraged to use other sections of the East Lothian coastline,
but bona fide naturalists are welcome. All visitors are asked to avoid disturbance by following
the main paths and dogs should be exercised elsewhere. The full-time warden, who can be
contacted for advice at any reasonable time (telephone 01875 870588), posts a regular bulletin,
indicating some of the birds to look out for, at the far end of the Timber Bridge. Groups are
asked to make prior arrangement with him so that he may advise on suitable tides and routes
and ensure an even spread of party visits throughout the year.
The site can be reached by car or bus (124 or 125 from St Andrew's Square Bus Station,
half-
hourly service) via the A198 Musselburgh- North Berwick road. The nearest railway station is at
Longniddry, three miles away. From the car park at the Timber Bridge, a path leads northwards
to Gullane with a spur, just past the Sewage Works, leading to the beach. A private road from
Aberlady to Kilspindie (pedestrian access only) leads to a path round the north side of
Kilspindie Golf Course to Gosford Bay. Keys to a hide on this path can be obtained by visiting
parties on application to the Warden. Maggie's Loup, the clifftop with concrete defence blocks
at the west side of Gullane Bay, is a good, if exposed, vantage point. Even at low tide some
wildfowl will be close in at Gullane Point and, although the viewpoint is not so high, one can
usually obtain some shelter from the wind here. The dunes at Aberlady and the edge of the
Kilspindie Golf Course provide some elevation but little shelter and it is really only at high tide
that seabirds are sufficiently close in for these stances to be worthwhile. The little promontory
(Bellfire Knowe) 100 yards along the Kilspindie road is a particularly good viewpoint as the
incoming tide is filling up Aberlady Bay.
What to see
Winter
This is perhaps the season that Aberlady has most to offer the birdwatcher but be
warned that
the site is exposed and can be very cold! Pink-footed Geese numbers peak in early November
with 15,100 recently and they can be seen regularly until January - a superb spectacle as they
flight in at dusk from feeding areas. These are usually to the south-east, near Drem, and it is
there that the flocks are best searched through for the presence of an occasional White-front or
Bean. Barnacles and Greylags are regularly found in the flocks at Aberlady and Snow Goose is
almost annual in occurrence. Geese like to roost undisturbed on the water or sand at the
entrance to the Bay and are best watched from the Car Park or the road to Kilspindie. Brents
(both races) occur frequently but usually keep separate from other geese and feed on the
saltings. A flock of Whooper Swans, usually 40-50 strong roosts at Aberlady and a few
Bewick's are sometimes found amongst them. Wigeon, Mallard, Teal, Shelduck and
Goldeneye are the ducks likely to be seen in the Bay with the occasional Pintail, Shoveler or
Tufted Duck. The sea off Aberlady and nearby Gullane Bay is especially good for wildfowl:
Eider, Long-tailed Duck, Common and Velvet Scoter and Red-breasted Merganser are the main
species with small numbers of Scaup and sometimes a Surf Scoter. Red-throated is by far the
commonest Diver with largest numbers in Gullane Bay in late afternoon when they gather to
roost. Black-throated and Great Northern Divers are seen fairly regularly and White-billed has
been identified on a handful of occasions. Red-necked and Slavonian Grebes are common in
winter but Black- necked is a considerable rarity. A calm sea and a telescope are essential for
counting these birds but a few individuals can usually be picked out closer inshore.
Although there are high numbers of waders in winter, the range of species is smaller
than at
passage periods and they are in drab plumage. This is the time, however, for seeing Purple
Sandpiper on the rocks at Gullane - strangely, they are almost unheard of at Kilspindie.
Influxes of Snipe occur when severe weather elsewhere drives them to the coast and an odd
Jack Snipe can sometimes be flushed from the saltmarsh. Merlin and Peregrine are often
attracted by the waders at high tide and have disrupted many a counting session! Fieldfares
(up to 5000) are supported by Sea Buckthorn berries, especially in severe weather, and a few
wintering Blackcaps may also be seen there. A large flock of Crows, sometimes including
Hoodies, also feeds on these fruits. On the saltmarsh look for Snow and Lapland Buntings
(often identified only by flight-calls), Twites, Lesser and Mealy Redpolls and occasionally Shore
Larks. Expect to see half-a-dozen Short-eared Owls hunting on calm afternoons and Long-
eareds sometimes roost by day in the thickets - please wait for them to emerge at dusk rather
than going in to flush them. Patience and luck are also required to see Water Rails which turn
up at the Marl Loch each winter.
Spring
An influx of Lesser Black-backed Gulls in early March presages spring and the first
Wheatear
is often seen before the month is out. This season is an exciting one at Aberlady with daily
arrivals of migrants and the constant likelihood that you're missing the action by being at the
wrong end of the reserve! A wide ranges of passerine species arrives to breed and many others
simply pass through. Willow Warblers sing from the Sea Buckthorn thickets and a few Lesser
Whitethroats rattle from the taller bushes. Hirundines and Swifts hunt over the freshwater Marl
Loch and migrant Tree Pipits may be identified by their calls as they fly over. Pied and White
Wagtails feeding at the edge of the saltmarsh are often joined by Yellows (of several races)
whilst Grey Wagtails tend to keep to the area of the Timber Bridge. A small duck rising from a
pool is probably a Teal but Shovelers are regular at this season and the rarer Garganey has
stayed to breed on a few occasions. Check whether that's a Whinchat (common) or a scarcer
Stonechat (only slowly regaining its numbers after a catastrophic fall caused by hard winters).
Lapwings, Redshanks, Ringed Plovers and Snipes all breed here and a pair of Dunlin
and
Woodcock usually also nest. The winter waders such as Grey Plover and Bar-tailed Godwit are
now assuming their summer finery. Fresh water may hold Wood Sandpipers, Ruffs or perhaps
a Temminck's Stint whilst Greenshanks, Common Sandpipers and Black- tailed Godwits feed
on the estuary. Compare Arctic and Common Terns on the beach, watch Sandwich Terns
plunge-diving into the sea or perhaps the rarer Little by the Bridge at high tide. Marsh Harrier is
recorded almost annually in spring and an Osprey may fly over with its attendant flock of
mobbing Crows or Oystercatchers. Spring days are never long enough!
Summer
Early June may see the arrival of a late passage migrant such as Turtle Dove or Red-backed
Shrike and is often the peak of Sanderling passage - these waders time their arrival on their
Arctic breeding grounds to coincide with the melting of the snows. Birds breeding locally
advertise their territorial possession by song: Sedge Warblers and Reed Buntings are abundant
in the marsh, Linnets, Meadow Pipits and Skylark in drier grassland and Redpolls, Bullfinches
and Blackcaps use the Sea Buckthorn spinneys for nesting. Drab Eider ducks seem to nest
everywhere and usually sit tight. Should you accidentally flush one cover its three to five eggs
with grass or down to hide them from Crows.
Tern flocks should be checked in summer for the presence of Roseates and Little Gulls,
mostly
immatures, often appear at this time. On the sea look for Puffins from Fidra or Craigleith and
passing Manx Shearwaters from further afield. Great Crested and Red-necked Grebes start to
assemble in late summer - at this time they are all adults in full summer plumage and are
probably failed breeders. As early as mid- June local Lapwings are already flocking and Golden
Plovers have started arriving from the hills.
Autumn
This is primarily a time for looking at waders at Aberlady with twenty species in
a day not too
difficult to achieve. If the tide is out or during neap tides view from the main road or walk up the
private road to Kilspindie (no cars here please). It is much better however to visit on a spring
tide when waders will be pushed in from feeding areas in Aberlady and Gosford Bays to
roosting sites. For the smaller species this is usually at the sandpit, for larger waders the
saltmarsh at the east side of the Bay, opposite the Marl Loch. It is best to settle down and wait
for the water to bring the birds to you but please, what ever you do, don't walk along the water's
edge putting everything to flight. Bar-tailed Godwits and Knot are often in orange breeding
plumage and black- and-silver Grey Plover are particularly fine. Look amongst the Dunlin for
Curlew Sandpipers from Siberia, first the adults and later the fresh-plumaged juveniles. These,
and the sparrow-sized Little Stints, occur annually but are much commoner in some years than
in others. Dusky-plumaged Spotted Redshanks dash after prey in the Peffer Burn and
Whimbrels betray their presence in the large Curlew flocks by their seven-note whistling.
Occasionally all the waders will rise in panic and an alert watcher may find the culprit - perhaps
a Merlin, Peregrine or Sparrowhawk.
Most of the passerine summer migrants depart in August and, although species such
as
Tawny Pipit and Bluethroat have occurred in autumn, spring passage is generally better here.
Seawatching from Gullane Point can be worthwhile, especially in strong onshore winds when
Bonxies and Arctic Skuas can be expected and Pomarines and Black Terns are also regular.
Long- tailed Skua and Sooty Shearwater have been seen here very occasionally but Little Auks
are perhaps regular in November gales.
By mid-September the first Pink-footed Geese have arrived from Iceland and flocks
of
Barnacles may be with them by the end of the month, en route for Caerlaverock.