Objects purchased in the West are ephemeral. People merely make use of them, and
they no
longer impose any patrimonial responsibility on the purchaser. They are bequeathed by nobody
and the owner in turn, shall bequeath them to nobody. They do, however, exert another kind of
constraint, for they hang over the owner as debts as yet unsettled. They no longer locate the
individual in a relationship to a family or customary group, but the owner is nevertheless brought
into relation through them with society at large and its agencies (the economic and financial order,
the fluctuations of fashion, and so forth). They have to be paid for over and over again, month by
month, or replaced every year.
The imperatives of personalization and mass production combined cause a proliferation
of
accessory features to the detriment of strict use value. The first effect of all the innovations and
all
the vagaries of fashion is to render objects more shoddy and ephemeral. Vance Packard points to
this tendency, listing 'three different ways that products can be made obsolescent':
- Obsolescence
of function.In this situation an existing product becomes outmoded when a
product is introduced that performs the function better.
- Obsolescence
of quality.Here, when it is planned, a product breaks down or wears out at a
given time, usually not too distant.
- Obsolescence
of desirability. In this situation a product that is still sound in terms of quality or
performance becomes 'worn out' in our minds because a styling or other change makes it
seem less desirable.
The first type of obsolescence - the functional type - is certainly laudable. . .
.
The last two aspects of this scheme work together to promote accelerated replacement
of an
object that itself affects the object's quality. Thus stockings may now come in all colours, but their
quality will have declined (or perhaps research and development will have been cut back to finance
an advertising campaign).
This means that everything has changed: the significance these objects have for the
owner, the
projects they embody, their objective future, and the future of the owner.. It is worth pondering the
fact that for centuries generations of people succeeded one another in an unchanging decor of
objects which were longer-lived than they, whereas now many generations of objects will follow
upon one another at an ever-accelerating pace during a single human lifetime. Where once man
imposed his rhythm upon objects, now objects impose their disjointed rhythm - their unpredictable
and sudden manner of being present, of breaking down or replacing one another without ever aging -
upon human beings. Thus the status of a whole civilization changes along with the way in which
its everyday objects make themselves present and the way in which they are enjoyed. In a
patriarchal domestic economy founded on inheritance and stable rents, consumption could never
conceivably precede production. Work preceded its fruit as cause precedes effect. That ascetic
mode of accumulation, rooted in forethought, in sacrifice was the foundation of a whole civilization
of thrift which enjoyed its own heroic period before expiring in the anachronistic figure of the rentier.
The beginning of the twentieth century marked the arrival of a new culture unprecedented
in the
history of human civilization. About a hundred years ago, America arrived at a turning point that led
to the gradual but persistent metamorphosis of the long- standing ideals and values that had
reigned over society. The beginning of the twentieth century saw the rise of what is commonly
referred to as the consumer culture.
Consumerism is the tendency of people to identify strongly with products or services
they
consume, especially those with commercial brand names and obvious status- enhancing appeal,
e.g. an expensive automobile, rich jewellery. It is a pejorative term which most people deny, having
some more specific excuse or rationale for consumption than the idea that they are "compelled to
consume".
To those who accept the idea of consumerism, these products are not seen as valuable
in
themselves, but rather as social signals or a reducer of anxiety about belonging. The older term
"conspicuous consumption" spread to describe this in the United States in the 1960s.
Capitalism dictated that only firms utilizing the most efficient production processes
and divisions of
labour would survive in the free marketplace. The superiority of factories to agrarian craft in this
regard forced people to abandon traditional homesteads, production processes and ideals. The
concentration of population in America shifted increasingly from rural to urban areas during the
industrial revolution. In 1870 almost seventy percent of the active labour force worked on farms and
by 1917 the figure had dipped to less than thirty percent. Individually constructed crafts were
drowned out of the marketplace by cheap, mass produced factory goods. As Adam Smith foresaw
in 1776 when he wrote the 'Wealth of Nations'.
"This impossibility
of making so complete and entire a separation of all the different
branches of labour employed in agriculture, is perhaps the reason why the improvement of
the productive powers of labour in this art does not always keep pace with their
improvement in manufactures."
In essence these productive and self sustaining Agrarian communities could not compete
on the
national scale with manufactured goods. In order to survive amid the destruction of their way of life,
farm workers and their families were left with no choice but to flee to the city where labour was in
greater demand. The move to city life affected people in more than economic or geographic terms.
Because the self was defined by one's work and one's community in the producer culture, the
traditional ideals of diligence, craftsmanship and moderation were given no social support and
quickly dissolved in the foreignness of city life. William Leiss contends that
"Linked
intimately with craft labour, the old ways of life could not stamp their accumulated
meanings on the anonymous products that were beginning to pour off the assembly lines.
And the highly restrictive codes of personal behaviour shaped by the closed worlds of
religious values could not survive the more subtle blows of industrialism."
Traditional values gave no cues to people on how to conduct themselves in their new
environment
nor did they clearly define social status. Karl Marx, critical of this change in lifestyle says in the
Communist Manifesto that capitalism "has drowned out the most heavenly ecstasies of religious
fervor, chivalrous enthusiasm, of philistine sentimentalism, in the icy water of egotistical
calculation." He claims that with the swift changes caused by rapid revolutions in production
"All fixed,
fast frozen relations, with their train of ancient and venerable prejudices and
opinions, are swept away, all new-formed ones become antiquated before they can ossify.
All that is solid melts into air, all that is holy is profaned."
The constant changes in production and their accompanying changes in social relations
never
lasted long enough for people to adapt and create value systems to regulate them. People were
perpetually left with a void in their lives that tradition had once filled.
Consumption quickly filled the void left by tradition. Success and pride in ones work
was replaced
with the instant and fleeting gratification of material goods. No longer was one's work the measure
of social worth and satisfaction. Instead the amount and types of goods one owned dictated social
status and our general level of well being. TJ Lears essay "From Salvation to Self Realization"
documents this change, he says "the crucial moral change was the beginning of a shift from a
Protestant ethos of salvation through self-denial toward a therapeutic ethos stressing self
realization in this world-an ethos characterized by an almost obsessive concern with psychic and
physical health defined in sweeping terms." People began to feel that goods could replace the less
tangible missing parts of their lives like love, friendship or community. Barry Lopez, sickened by
the consumption ethic in America states in a tribute to Wallace Stegner "Perhaps the saddest
aspect of this imperative to consume in the West is that we're asked to accept a certifiable piece of
rubbish: more satisfaction is ultimately to be found in a product -- a style of trouser, a personally
tailored system of electronic communication, an exercise regimen, a career -- than in another
human being." The consumer culture has not only disconnected us from the processes of
production, it has also disconnected us from one another. So much that the easiest way for us to
communicate and identify with each other is through what we own and their accompanying
symbols. Lopez says "To an outsider, it might also appear that psychologically if not actually,
many of us live in isolation; and that separated from a continuous stream of stimulation derived
from our purchases we become anxious." Consumption is like a drug that offers us only temporary
satisfaction. An increased quantity and frequency of consumption is needed for people to achieve
the same level of gratification.
Advertising was a key culprit in the advent of the consumer culture. It took over
the role of tradition
central to the producer culture by directing people's marketplace and social actions. The separation
of the arenas of work and personal life coupled with increased disposable income permitted people
to devote more time and money to leisure and luxury. The efficiency of capitalism generated a
surplus beyond necessity and advertising was an attempt to unite that surplus with people's
excess income. Often this was only feasible by creating a demand for goods that people did not
necessarily need to subsist. Through fostering overconsumption (consumption exceeding the level
necessary to live comfortably) in the populace, capitalists were able to expand markets to products
people generally had never heard of or needed. Where previous economies had let supply dictate
the level of demand, advertising enabled the opposite be true.
The origins of mass advertising can be traced to the origin of brand names. Manufacturers
created
brand names to both distinguish their products and to avoid low price competition. By touting the
advantages of their product through advertising manufacturers were able to create demand and
brand loyalty. Early forms of advertising primarily constituted magazine ads and catalogues. They
gave detailed and sometimes lengthy descriptions of the workings and qualities of their products.
However, many firms realized the potential benefit of advertising and competition became intense
quickly spawning professional agencies. Many magazines in the early twentieth century devoted
almost a quarter of their pages to ads. This required that ads be eye-catching and creative in order
to distinguish themselves to the casual magazine reader. The first important evolution ads
undertook was becoming less copy and more visual. Through the incorporation of art and the
availability of colour in magazines, ads became exciting, diverse and creative. Lengthy product
descriptions were replaced by images of the product in a variety of situations and uses. Not only
did the increased visualness of ads increase their distinction, it also enabled their content to be
more abstract. More abstract ads meant that influence could be exerted over a larger market
segment and that advertisers were given a wider palette of ideas with which to work. The deeper
meanings of ads became subtler and harder to pinpoint causing them to influence more than our
marketplace decisions.
Ads began to change
our persona.
The second evolution of
ads was their increased nonrationality.
Ads began to tell
people more about consumer benefits than product attributes.
Ads often claimed
that products could influence other spheres of ones life beyond
reasonable scope.
William Leiss suggests that "advertising works much as mythology does in primitive
societies,
providing simple, anxiety reducing answers to the complex problems of modern life by playing on
the deep symbolic structures of the human imagination."
Ads became a contemporary
form of magic that invoked products with unnatural powers.
Advertising contended that simply consuming certain goods one could win friends, find
a spouse or
even transcend social status. During this evolution rational arguments for buying a product were
beginning to be replaced with either subtle or direct persuasion. The majority of rational arguments
remaining in ads were either testimonials or outrageous claims,often as deceptive as nonrational
arguments.
Instead of informing consumers about goods, ads sought to change the very way people
felt about
them. By surrounding unfamiliar products with familiar situations, ads could rub the emotional
content of one onto another. The variety of different persuasions this entailed, gave ads an unlimited
creative license.
Ads could visually
equate almost any variety of feelings or ideals with products.
In the 1990's for example sex is frequently used to sell beer and cigarettes, two
of the least sexy
products around. Ironically, moral objections prevent sex from being used to advertise condoms.
Familiar emotions and situations surrounding unfamiliar products transfer the meaning of the one
onto the other.
Ads are able not
only to direct our consumer choices, they are also highly influential on our
social and psychological behaviour.
The constant bombardment of ads in our home, in our entertainment and on the roads
instill false
representations of well being by playing on our basic human emotions. Whether or not advertisers
intend to influence this way is not important. The fact is that ads have been a primary agent in
defining American culture in the twentieth century. Many people feel the question we should now
be asking is:
Was the destruction of
traditional and natural human characteristics and century old ideals worth
the extra profit to our firms and the added luxury to ourselves. Unless a revolution of ideals takes
place in the next century, our exponentially increasing population coupled with this culture of
overconsumption is going to bring death to our race and our planet?'